Up at our usual time – after a wonderfully comfortable night – to the horror of heavy rain, lightning and thunder. We’re hanging out at our guesthouse – hopes for drier weather decreasing by the moment. Michel is on his second cup of coffee. We’ve decided to leave at 9am regardless. Thank goodness for ponchos. At least this is our last day and we’re at low elevation so if we get wet it’s no big deal. Sigh.
Tendi is in the kitchen doing his best to use his “small powers” to clear the weather. He takes these things personally.
Off we set at 9:15. The wind and rain somewhat lessened. We had some muddy road to walk along for a while and then a Nepali up for about 45 minutes. When we were about half way up it was another 45 minutes. When we were near the top it was another 45 minutes. The good thing about today’s walk in the fog and rain was that at this altitude it wasn’t a gasping breath sucking affair so we made the ascent easily.
The village of Chisapani was badly damaged by the earthquake. We passed several buildings that are crumpled heaps of brick and twisted rebar. One three storey building sits on a sharp angle and looks to be on the verge of collapse.
The first place we stopped at was a disgusting hovel. The rook was leaking. Water dripping on to the floor and one of the beds. The outhouse outside. Michel and I refused to stay. We are now in an odd place that seems closed. Furniture stacked in the front window, a bed with no mattress. Our room is fine, there’s no wood stove in the dining room so it’s a bit chilly but nothing as uncomfortable at a few nights ago.
This was our last trekking day. A bit disappointing to end in the rain. Of more concern is that this weather is potentially rotting potatoes and newly sprouting corn in farmer’s fields. If that happens there will be hunger this winter for many families such as Tendi’s. They rely on their harvest to eat and to sell. Our mild discomfort is inconsequential.
Tendi, Dawa, Michel and I enjoyed dinner together for our last evening as “Team Without Rope.” Unfortunately Lakpa was under the weather so he didn’t join us for hearty dishes of Dhal Bhat. Dawa made delicious apple fritters for dessert.
We went to bed as a new round of storm began winding itself into a fury. The racket of wind and deluge lasted all night.