We ate our self catered breakfast in the warm dining room of the hostel before setting out into a cool cloudy day.
Within a very short time, due to the undulating terrain, we were warm and removing gators and jackets. Although cloudy, the visibility was much better than yesterday. The ups and downs weren’t as high as yesterday’s but there were more of them and they were steeper. Many more of them! We think there is no flat land in Cornwall.
The scenery was stunning. Harsh jagged cliffs rising out of the sea with vibrant green sheep filled pastures gently sloping down to meet their edgy slate blackness. Bright yellow blooms of the gorse, the blues, pinks and whites of the various wild flowers were vivid in the dim clouded light. Rock walls, fences, styles, gates, tiny bridges, slippery muddy shale strewn treacherous descents and breath taking ascents marked our passage.
We stopped for lunch in the lee of a rock wall. I devoured a delicious Cornish Pastie. Love those things! Shortly afterwards a drizzle began, backed by a stiff breeze. The drizzle became a driving rain. We did not pause to put our gators back on. Dumb move! Marianne and I were wearing our ponchos. We were walking along cliff edges in winds. Another questionable move! We got soaking wet feet but didn’t sail away off the cliffs! Gee.
I suffer from vertigo when I’m not confined by climbing harness and rope, chairlift bar, fence or other barrier between me and the abyss. Trust me on this – today’s section of path is enough to give a person with vertigo pause! There were several times today when my heart beating faster than normal had nothing to do with upping and downing.
Along the way today we met a black male sheep and a white female sheep. They were on the path and were surprised to see us. From the sheepish looks on their faces we could see they had been up to some mischief. The black sheep was behind the white sheep.
“Go for it dear, just dash by them,” said the black to the white.
“OK, oh no, I can’t. I’m too scared,” she replied.
We waited and said nice things to them, but those silly sheep ran along the path ahead of us. They didn’t like being too far from their field so soon they stopped again. The same thing happened. We stopped, they tried to get the courage to pass us but failed and ran off.
Finally the black sheep said to the white sheep, “Let me go in front. I’ll run past them and you just need to follow.”
Suddenly both sheep were dashing towards us, the black one leading. We jumped to the side (taking are not to fall off the cliffs) and he streaked by. The white sheep was right behind him. As they drew level, she leapt high and flew by the three of us about three feet off the ground! And they were gone. I had no idea a sheep could jump so far!
We dripped into Port Isaac (Home of Doc Martin) and as we crept down the last incline discovered a pup at the bottom. In we went. Beers were ordered and as we sipped, the sun came out! We ordered more beers and dashed outside. Soon we had four tables festooned with wet ponchos, socks, feet, jackets….. the fellows behind the bar were accommodating of having the pub become akin to a laundry facility. When I took off my boots, I rang out my socks and a significant amount of water splashed onto the ground! Yuk!
Later, still under sunny skies, we wandered around the town. It’s pretty and crowded with tourists. We are now at our accommodation – The Cornish Arms – several kilometres away. As this place is not on our route, and feeling disinclined to walk an other five kms we grabbed a taxi to get here.