Happiness is fair weather and a high mountain trail 

19 March

This is why I come to Nepal!Today is one of those perfect days. We leave Junbesi at 6:55am, bellies filled with oat porridge. There is high thin cloud thus it is slightly warmer. Emphasis on slightly. Soon we are climbing through pine forest, and then….my bliss….out onto a high open traverse. The views extend up towards the white clad Himal and steeply down to the valley below. Small terraced farm houses scatter throughout the spring green of young barley crops rising from the winter brown earth. Across the valley a Gompa (monastery) sits bright painted and snuggled under fluttering prayer flags. A distant barking of a dog, a jingle of a bell around a cow’s neck, a bird’s song rising in the crisp morning air. My soul replenished. The trail for much of the morning undulates gently up and down flowing along the contour of the slope. We stop for tea at my favourite cheese chop and buy 500 grams of the best yak cheese on the planet. Actually it’s not yak cheese because yaks are males. It is nac cheese. But you get my drift. And to clarify the actual weight a bit…. the cheese we buy balances the scales at two 200 gram weights and three snickers bars. I guess the cheese selling woman has lost her 10 gram weight. As good as the cheese, is a clear view of the dark triangle peak of Chomolungma – Everest. She doesn’t show herself for long as the afternoon clouds begin to gather

The afternoon’s walk is a bit more challenging as we climb up to Taksindu La then head down and down into Nunthala. The trail is a mud bath. Steep, and slippery with mule dung and mule pee. Mule pee really is very foul smelling. Mule dung/pee mud is vile. As we walk slipping and sliding that final long hard hour light snow begins to fall. 

We are tired but buoyant as we arrive at our guest house. Within minutes the heavens open and a deluge of rain pours down! Obviously things are warming up. Marianne and I celebrate this day’s end with a shared beer. The dining room here has a functional stove and it is wonderfully cozy.

2 thoughts on “Happiness is fair weather and a high mountain trail 

  1. What a lovely writer you are and how dissimilar our lives have become in the last 10 days. I feel like I want to join you but only for a couple of hours on the best day. Magically and painlessly transported to and from my destination. I love starting the morning with your most recent post and a cup of hot, strong, creamy coffee. Thank you for making time to write so often. The images that you create are compellingly clear. Oh for a whiff of mule pee!

    • Ah yes the whif of mule pea or a good cup of coffee. Hmm let me see…. coffee wins! It’s been an epic journey and it is now behind us. Finished the trek today. Was hard wonderful work!

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