Yesterday there was no blog because there was nothing really worth telling you about. We took the bus from Kavala to Nea Karvali and walked from there about 22 k through flat farm land intersected with canals. Our destination was a fairly large town -Chrysoupolis that has even less going for it (as far as we can tell) than most towns of comparable size. Our hotel was a bit of a dump – OK that’s being kind – it was a tip! Stunk of some sort of fuel – like a filthy unvented auto mechanic shop. Our room had a balcony so we were able to air our room out. It was marginally clean. The old lady who met us upon arrival started asking for money before we were even in the door. We refused of course. Later a man was at the desk. He informed us he’d need payment in the evening as he’d not be around in the morning. No one was around all night except the two of us. What’s with these untended hotels? Before I fell asleep last night I sent out a plea to those Greek gods of antiquity – Hermes in particular – for a good day of travel today. Today being an important one.
Today is Pat’s birthday! The gods smiled upon us and provided the best walking day since we crossed into Greece.
The weather was perfect. Dry, part sun, part cloud not too warm.
The trail was perfect. No main road. None! No steep hills up or down. No garbage. Best repeat that – NO GARBAGE! None in the water – none by the trail, none in the bushes. Lovely! We spent some time walking by the very pretty Nestos River. We sat on the round stones at its edge for our lunch. A wonderful change from past weeks sitting in dusty dirty prickly road side pullouts.
The distance was perfect. 20kms.
Our destination is perfect. By far the nicest place we’ve stayed in Greece. We have a whole two story restored 100 year old mansion to ourselves. Full kitchen, living room. Beautifully decorated….
Our meal in the village was perfect. Home made, served with interest and care. Delicious. Best meal in Greece.
Thank you Hermes for a wonderful day!
Now, a funny story about our entry into this small village of Toxotes where we are staying the night at Kokkymelon guest house:
As we walked in we heard a lyre being played and an excellent male voice singing. Someone’s radio? No. A young man singing by his car, his elderly mother coming out to meet him, smiling somewhat toothlessly. He stopped singing, gave the lyre to his mum in exchange for the bag of garbage she handed him. He was walking to the bin while we walked by. About that moment I realized we’d missed our turn into the village. We stopped to consult Gypsy – who flashed her little direction arrow at us in annoyance. The man asked if we needed directions. We told him we were looking for the place to cross the railway tracks – he joined Gypsy in pointing is back to a turn hidden in bushes a few metres back along the track.
Off we went, first complimenting him on his singing.
We quickly arrived into the village centre – on the other side of the rail tracks – and stopped at a small shop for directions to our hotel. The man in there was pleased to hear our destination, “my sister’s hotel,” he explained. He was giving us directions when the singing man showed up. “I’ll drive you,” he offered’ “she’s my sister.” (Aside – the sister is a civil engineer, she has a vineyard, makes her own wine – in a very huge stone tub by stomping on the grapes, she restored this mansion, and running her guest house is just a side interest. Wow!)
What are the chances that the first two people we meet in a village are brothers, and that we are staying at their sister’s hotel? We are now sitting with our feet up in the comfortable living room, watching some sort of Greek tv show about ancient Greek ruins while sipping some very nice Greek wine. A perfect way to end a very enjoyable day!
I’ve tried several times to upload some pictures with no luck. Will try again tomorrow. Good night from the charming village of Toxotes.