Somehow posts got out of sequence. Read this before the post called cooling my jets in Namche….
I thought the trek from Junbesi to Nunthala was tough until the next day when we stumbled along to Bupsa. But that day wasn’t as bad as the next one to Surkey. This day now holds the all time record for my most frustrating – actually not having much fun at all – day of trekking.
It was horrendous for the reasons already mentioned – horrid trail conditions. I ended the day – the third long hard one – in Surkey actually seriously considering aborting this mission. It started to rain on the way to Surkey which didn’t help matters. The slippery mule dung coated, boulder ridden, water filled pot-holed “trail” became as miserable a trekking experience as I’ve ever had. We’d expected to walk further but simply ran out of time and frankly the will.
It rained and thundered violently during our night in Bupsa. High on a hillside, we were right up in the thunderous clouds and the entire building shook with the rage of the storm. I had been wearing my Sherpa dress up to this point but decided this was the day to adopt a western skirt. Thank goodness as the full length dress would have been soaked and dragged through miles of dung mud.
The morning we left Surkey dawned clear and beautiful. I walked for a while with a young Polish woman who pointed out that had we gone further the day before, we would have missed the beauty of the area we were walking through. She was absolutely right. Yesterday was a perfect trekking day. The trail was now much improved and the joy is back. As usual I seem to thrive at altitude. The fatigue is gone. My joints are painless. I’m energized.
However there is a problem. Tendi is ill. Of course he hid it for a day, but he’s got a significant gut upset and barely made it to Namche today as he’s becoming quite dehydrated. He finally accepted some cipro and electrolytes from me yesterday and has been escorted to the doctor by Puri – at my insistance. I pulled the didi (elder sister) card. Yesterday Puri did double duty walking with me, then leaving me with is pack and jogging back to Tendi and taking his pack for a while. As I’m sure you can imagin Tenid was not pleased with this state of affairs but he really had no chioce.
It rained again today as we climbed into Namche. We’re staying in a pretty posh place. I think partly because Tendi just couldn’t climb any higher to get to the place he usually takes his clients. Any way I’m not complaining. There’s a western style toilet just down the hall. Bliss. Also there is a place to hang my wet poncho in the room – a rare and welcome occurrence. And there is a clean – clean being the key word here – extra blanket on the bed!
My bliss has just been shattered. A large Explore group has just arrived. The peaceful dining room is no longer peaceful. There are three of us solo types – time to strike up a conversation with one of them….
Good night from Namche.